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Summary
Squalene is a biomimetic lipid that replicates the skin's natural oils. It nourishes without clogging pores, strengthens the skin barrier, and provides immediate softness. In LUUM's Melipona Honey Cream, it helps seal in moisture and protect the skin from daily wear and tear.
About
Squalene (in its stabilized form: squalane) is a natural component of human sebum that our skin produces to stay hydrated, flexible, and protected. It represents approximately 12% of the skin surface lipids, making it one of the emollients most compatible with our biology.
In LUUM's Melipona Honey Cream, squalene acts as a deep nourishing vehicle that works in harmony with Melipona honey. While honey provides its bioactive surface compounds, squalene facilitates absorption and seals in moisture, creating a silky and comfortable finish that the skin recognizes as its own.
Science
Squalene is an unsaturated triterpene hydrocarbon that is part of the cholesterol biosynthesis process in the skin. Its molecular structure allows it to integrate perfectly into the cutaneous lipid layer, restoring flexibility and barrier function without altering the skin's natural balance.
As a lipophilic antioxidant, squalene protects cell membranes from oxidative damage caused by UV radiation and free radicals. In addition, its non-comedogenic emollient capacity makes it suitable for all skin types, including combination and oily skin that needs nourishment without heaviness. For cosmetic use, it is used in its hydrogenated form (squalane), which is more stable and resistant to oxidation.
History
Squalene was first identified in 1906 by Japanese chemist Mitsumaru Tsujimoto, who isolated it from shark liver oil. In fact, its name comes from Squalus, the scientific genus of sharks. For decades, the cosmetics industry relied on marine sources for its extraction, which raised sustainability concerns.
Today, responsible cosmetics have migrated to plant-based sources of squalene, primarily derived from olive oil, sugarcane, and amaranth, eliminating the need to resort to marine resources and aligning with more ethical and sustainable consumption practices.
Origin
Plant-derived squalene is obtained mainly from extra virgin olive oil, where it is naturally present in the unsaponifiable fraction. Other plant sources include amaranth oil, sugarcane, and wheat germ. The extraction process involves controlled hydrogenation that transforms squalene into squalane, making it more stable for cosmetic use.
At LUUM, we use plant-derived squalene, consistent with our commitment to creating effective, responsible formulas free of animal-derived ingredients.
Did You Know?
The natural production of squalene in the skin peaks during adolescence and begins to decrease significantly after the age of 30. This reduction is directly related to the appearance of dryness, loss of elasticity, and increased vulnerability to environmental damage. Applying squalene topically is, in essence, giving the skin back something it produces itself but loses over time. This is why it is known as a "biomimetic" lipid: because it mimics what the skin already recognizes as its own.